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Monday, June 28, 2010

Responsible Dog Ownership - Housebreaking 101

I'm going to assume at this point that you've read my posts about getting a new puppy/dog and bringing your new puppy/dog home  Today, we're going to take the next leap - Housebreaking!

Once again I'm going on record as saying that my methods are not the *only* housebreaking methods.  I firmly believe that being a good dog trainer means evaluating and adapting to each individual dog.  I encourage owners who have tried these various methods and have not had the success they want or need to reach out to an experienced local trainer in your area.  There are dog training clubs, independent trainers, and training schools out there.  Make sure you do your research and pick a training who is compatible with your own values and views of raising your dog. 

Now... on to the show!

I said it before and I'll say it again.  The number 1 best training tool, the best housebreaking tool, is a good dog crate.  In addition to all of the previous benefits we talked about, using a crate for housebreaking does make things less stressful on you and your dog.  Less stressful means a better experience, less accidents, and a more positive training experience.  The things to remember when using a crate for housebreaking:
     1.  You do *not* want a crate that is too big.  You dont want them to have enough room to segment the crate - a part for sleeping a part as a bathroom.  Their crate is *not* a master suite!
     2.  The crate is not a jail cell.  Puppies need time out to play and learn and explore, but it *MUST* be highly supervised.  A puppy or new dog needs time to learn the "rules" and how to give you the cue that they need to go out.  My golden rule:  If you can't be watching them, you can't get upse if they have an accident.  Would you let a baby or toddler run around the house without a diaper, not watch them, and then be upset when they had an accident?


How do you put this into a positive, practical experience? 
1.  Remember that puppies have tiny little bladders.  They need to go out often and praised each and every time they eliminate in the appropriate place.  Using the word you want to associate with this *as they are doing the act* will help them get the idea of going on command.  Believe me, this is a huge benefit for you.  I highly recommend it.  Older dogs can have the same program, however, they may not need to go out as frequently and will more quickly catch on to letting you know.  But, again, you have to watch them for cues!

2.  Feed on a schedule!   Puppies should be fed anywhere from 2 to 3 or 4 times a day.  Put their food down for 30 minutes.  If they finish early, or after 30 minutes, take them out.  If they eliminate, praise of course, but then let them have some play time.  Puppies will often wear themselves out after only a few minutes.  As they get older, so will their stamina.  After play time, give them one more chance to eliminate (and praise of course!) and then bring them into the house.  If you cant give the puppy attention, then crate until you can.  But, remember, every time you let them out of the crate, you have to let them out to eliminate! 

If, however, your puppy does NOT elimiate while outside, when you go back into the house, crate for 20-30 minutes and try again.  You really want your puppy to realize that elimiating outside not only gets them tons of great praise from you, but that it also means play and inclusion in family social time.   Dogs are pack animals, they *want* to be with their pack, even if its just watching tv together!!

3.  While older dogs can usually go longer, puppies are going to need to go out every 2 hours or so.  Yes, that often means in the middle of the night.  However, if you're on a feeding schedule and you remove food and water at a specific time every night, your dog will get used to the schedule and you'll find overnight trips out will become fewer and further beween!

My biggest hot topic:

4.  If you catch your puppy/dog in the act -  Use a loud, sharp noise (e.g.: clap your hands loudly, make a vocalization like 'EH!', etc).  This should startled (but not SCARE) the puppy/dog and you can immediately take them out to the place where they SHOULD be eliminating.  When they continue out there, do remember to lavish praise.  If you do NOT catch them in the act - YOU were not paying attention!  Once the act is complete, there's no sense in yelling at your puppy/dog.  Try yelling at yourself for not keeping the dog tethered to you, watching the dog more closely, or in the crate. Dogs only associate consequences of an action as the action is happening.  Punishing a dog later for something they've done is useless and will only foster fear and aggression.  Its not worth it, trust me.  As frustrated as you are in that moment, stop and think.  Was the dog trying to tell you someting?  Did you miss a cue?  How did the dog get out of your sight?  If you gave them more freedom to roam the house, go back a step to less freedoms. 


Housebreaking is not always easy.  These tips and suggestionns have worked for me.  They may not work for you as each puppy/dog is different, but they're sound foundations to build on. 
Jessica and Ranger
Lunar K9s Service Dogs Team #2

Friday, June 25, 2010

Shout out - @DavidonDemand

Here's a shout-out to Twitter's @DavidonDemand!  He's in Canne and he's set up to do whatever we want (as long as its legal and doesnt upset his mom!!!) -  Just Tweet him @DavidonDemand - and give him your request.  Hopefully you wont get stuck in the bottleneck!!

Here's hoping he'll tweet for us to help us with our fundraising!  He has over 4000 followers!  If each of his followers donated $1 we'd be at our goal - 2000 followers could each do $2 - 1000 folowers could each do $4 - or 500 followers could do $8!  -- Less than the cost of a latte! 

Even if we dont get a shout-out to help us - go check out DavidonDemand.  He actually really does rock and his Tweets are hilarious!
Jessica and Ranger
Lunar K9s Service Dogs Team #2

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

SD Training - Advanced training being planned

We come with VERY exciting news - I have found a trainer willing to work with Ranger and I to complete his SD training!!! 
When a dog is part of a service dog program, most of the time it spends its first 18-24 months with a "puppy raiser."  This person/family socializes the dog and gets them comfortable with the world around them, takes them on public outtings and usually does dog training classes with other SD prospect puppies.  After their time with their puppy raiser, they then move on to 'boarding school' at the program's facility.  Its there where they learn the advanced tasks they'll need to help their human partner.  Once the dogs have learned their tasks, are proofed for public work, and ready to be matched with a partner, applicants are selected to come to the training facility and spend 1-2 weeks training with their new partner.  They learn grooming, commands, etiquette... everything a human partner needs to know about their dog!

Since Ranger is not part of a program and has been raised and trained by me, its up to me to train the advanced tasks.  Normally I could easily walk someone else through the steps of training a task from A to B to C to end task.  But, as many of you know, Ranger and I have been struggling of late with our training.  I have been frustrated and feel like we've hit a brick wall.  The more frustrated I get, the more blocked I am on how to work through and fix.   I really felt it was necessary for us to have a hands-on 3rd party trainer to help get us to our goals. 

The trainer we found who has agreed to work with us is within driving distance, which is fantastic.  She loves and lives the Beauceron breed, so she is the perfect person to help me address his breed-related issues - or tell me if something IS a breed-related issue.  She also has a really strong background in SD training and even trains people to BE trainers of service dogs.

Now, our challenge is raising the money to cover the cost of the training plus travel and lodging expenses for our time there.  I estimate the total cost will be around $4000, which would be roughly what I'd be fundraising for the same thing were I doing the team training through a program.

Please feel free to pass our website along to anyone you know.  Help us spread the word.  We're looking for in-kind donations, product donations to raffle off, one-time and ongoing sponsorships, and, of course, monetary contributions would be fantastic.  Every dollar donated makes a difference and no donation is too small! 

This is something that Ranger and I both need to truly attain where we want and need to be.  He has already made a difference in my life and I know, with this training, we will become a stronger, more united team as well as giving us more independence in general. 
Jessica and Ranger
Lunar K9s Service Dogs
Team #2

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

SD Product Announcement: Mobility Harness

For those of us who need a good, sturdy mobility harness that isnt going to slip, slide, shift, or otherwise move around when we need it most but is still lightweight enough for all-day wear and comfortable enough not to cause chaffing... hold on to your handles.

Katrina over at Bold Lead Designs has come up with something we think will fit the bill and Ranger and I can't wait to get our hands on one to try it out!!

Bold Lead Designs' Mobility Support Harness:

(Brace and Balance ambulatory/walking assistance harness for service dogs)
Katrina's diagram is much better at pointing out all the best details here.  My favorite part is that the handle is adjustable - AND - folds down!  (how many times have we gotten a handle caught on a chair or the edge of a table, etc?!)  Its also a light-weight coming in at just 2.5 pounds (3 pounds for the big dogs!) but packs a lot of stability into that.  Padded to reduce chaffing and metal pieces that will not rust!  Truly made to last and withstand all of the different situations we find ourselves in (rain, sleet, snow... puddles, table glass spills at resturants, etc).  And, all of the straps are adjustable making it truly able to fit even the most oddly shaped, growing dogs!  Since she makes the harnesses herself, Katrina works closely with you to make sure you get exactly the right fit for you and your teammate - how cool is that?!   If you're in the Denver area, you can even go to her and have it fitted. 

In addition to the harness, I have to share my *happy* thing with all of you.  My lost blue leash?  The mulit-configurable leash?  The one I lost in the move and tried to replace with the costal pets but it just "wasn't quite the same?"  -- Guess what? -  Katrina makes these multi-form leashes in *leather!*  -- YES!  For all of you who are not trainers, having a leather leash truly does make a HUGE difference.  For one, its easier on your hands, easier to grip and maintain a grip, and it wont fray like the nylon leads do.  Katrina makes these in 5, 7 and 8 foot leads, but if that's not the right size for you, let her know!  She can work with you on just about anything (and she's SUPER nice!) to make sure you get the product you're looking for!

Of course, Katrina's site has a wide variety of other leashes, head leads, collars, etc - all in leather of course - and all look stunning.

Jessica and Ranger
Lunar K9s Service Dogs Team #2

Friday, June 11, 2010

Fundraising & Sponsorship - Goal: An every day harness!

One of the things we've decided to do to help Ranger and I in our 9-month intensive training is to get him an 'every day' harness to wear while we're working around the house and in general. The hope is to get him used to wearing it more and to remind him he's 'on duty' - even at home where he's gotten to have the most relaxed behaviors.  It would also be a visual reminder to my family and friends that he's 'on duty' which I think would help tremendously aas well as give me a handle and harness to use during vertigo attacks and instability.

Duty Harness by All K-9s.com

The vest is a very sturdy, but lightweight harness with a detachable handle and detachable pouches (for quick impromtu walks on my good days or to help me carry smaller items through the house (like inhalers and meds) on my bad ones. Of course, my patches would say 'Service Dog' and/or 'Do Not Pet' on them - but there are places for 3 velcro patches (where this photo shows 'Police' - those are the velcro patches) - one on each side and one across the chest. The reason for this harness in particular, is the placement of the handle across the shoulders (not in the middle of the back like some of the other harness have, which is harder on a dog's spine!) as well as the heavy-duty material it is made out of. Truly a harness that will keep meeting our needs for a long time to come

The other harness being considered is from fullgripgear.com

Again, this one has a handle up at the shoulders.  The handle is padded as is the vest and the straps, which would make it more comfortable for Ranger during the day.
Of course, living in Arcola and working with Lunar K9s, we'd love to have this in Purple and Silver.

I've heard only the best things about FullGrip Gear and know they make top-quality harnesses, leashes, and other gear for SDs, Police K9, Search & Rescue, and Schutzhund teams.



So our first and current fundraising project would hopefully cover the cost of the harness, pouches, handle, patches, tax and shipping.   I'm exciting to and very much looking forward to having and using our new gear in the 9-month intensive training and beyond.

Jessica and Ranger
Lunar K9s Service Dogs Team #2

SD Training - Ranger stumbles and I fall down (metaphorically speaking)

Sometimes having a SD makes your life MUCH easier.  When my legs are going numb or when the room is spinning, having him there partnering with me, it helps.  He helps me stand by bracing and standing very still so I can stand and steady myself.  He helps by leaning against me when the vertigo hits and the room spins so that I can steady myself and he'll help navigate me to a chair so I can sit down.  Sometimes he is just there with me through the vertigo so that I dont panic.   Sometimes he helps me move forward when my limbs feel leadened and frozen.  -- Sometimes he makes my life so much easier and independent. 

Other times, we have bad days.  Sometimes having an SD is hard.  Its hard work.  Its frustrating.  Its physically and emotionally exhausting. 

Just under a year ago Ranger was coming along great.  He loved being with me.  He loved working with me.  He was always focused on me.  We were a team. 

After moving back in with my parents, that mutual feeling continued.  We had each other and Jazzy.  We were a pack-o-3.  Life was good.  With Jazzy passing and us spending more time out of our room and with the parents and their dog, our little pack-o-2 meshed into the family and we found ourselves folded into the family pack.  He was playing with my parents' 5-year-old Bichon.  He was getting less focused.  He was walking around more freely wandering further and further away from me to explore the rest of the house.  Little by little the changes happened.  So slowly, in fact, that I didnt really recognize them for what they were and course correct when I should have. 

Then, it happened.  He started displaying signs of having bonded with my dad.  He wanted to be with my dad.  He loves my dad (and the feeling is QUITE mutual).  Of course, this weakened and fractured the bond that I'd spent his whole 18 months building.  He *wanted* to be with my dad.  -- My wonderful dog who I had been able to let lay on the wood landing outside my bedroom door (with the door open) because it was cooler there with no doubt he'd stay right there - got up and wandered not only away from my door, but through the house and downstairs!  The final straw was us coming in one night and me trying to give him a command only to have each of my parents give one simultaneously - and have him listen and go to my dad. 

I was absolutely devistated. 

Of course, lest anyone think my parents were doing something wrong on purpose, they weren't.  They wanted to make him feel at home and part of the family.  They wanted him to feel safe and loved.  They really were doing what they could to make us happy.   It was me.  I fell down.  I relaxed the rules about running and playing in the house and about running up to people to greet them whenever he/they wanted.  Of course, I wanted him to be well socialized.  I wanted him to be comfortable too.  I wanted to make the upheavals tha we'd had less stressful and traumatic.  I was wrong.

So, this week I was staring at a dog who I felt had zero bond left with me.  We were both fractured and broken.  Something had to give.  I was ready to "wash him out" (retire him from SD work) because I couldn't see how this could be fixed.  I refused to make him work if he was unhappy doing it.  I want us to be a team - one that *wants* to work together.  We weren't and I was devistated, frustrated, depressed, and miserable.

Enter trainer friends 1 and 2.   They let me have my breakdown.  They let me fall apart and have the afternoon/evening to cry and convince myself that he'd need to be rehomed (which hurt the worst!) because he'd be miserable (and he would) if he couldnt go with me when I left, etc. -- They let me have my moment.  During the moment, though, Ranger kept nudging me and even laid on my legs and never moved.  It was like he knew I was giving up on us and he was trying to tell me not to.  -- The next morning I was still convinced.  Then TF-1 and I talked.  We talked and talked and talked.  She was convinced this was not hopeless.  Give it 9 months of an intensive training/bonding program.  He's old enough now that he could do it - and we're not starting from scratch on the training - so 9 months is reasonable.  Give it 9 months and he'd be 2-1/2.  Give it 9 months and then reassess.  See if things feel better, more solid.  Nine months of no one else giving him any kind of attention or even eye contact.  Completely ignoring him - everyone - including my family. 

Oh yeah, THAT is the hardest part.  They're all trying so hard (and so far doing well) to not love on him - not make eye contact - act like he isnt even there.

Ranger is trying too.  We had to go out yesterday and make several stops.  He was better than he has been in a long time.  He was more focused (not great by any means, but I'm taking progress for what it is - progress!) - and he was more able and willing to move *with* me.   We're not a team - but that team didnt break down over night and its not going to be rebuilt in a day. 

For now, we're just pushing forward.
Jessica and Ranger
Lunar K9s Service Dogs Team #2

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Training Days - Clicker Training - Phase 1

I'll admit, I've been an on and off fan of clicker training for years, but I just couldn't break my old habits and come over to the 'clicker side.'  After reading Teamwork I and Teamwork II and going through the Leerburg site and watching the streaming videos on training with markers (clickers), well I decided if we were starting over anyway, why NOT give this a shot.  What I was doing was clearly not getting the desired results - what harm could it do?  (Shameless plug:  Barbara Handelman works a lot with clicker training assistance/service dogs - she has a great website with videos and great articles and a yahoo group to boot!  I highly recommend checking her out.)

Last week we worked on the 'click/treat' portion.  You associate the clicker with a reward (treat) - so the dog starts to make the two synonymous.  This way, when you click it begins to think 'yes, that's what she wanted!'

This week, I'm working on 'attention.'  Every time he freely offers up looking at me (giving me his attention), I'm clicking and then treating.  Its easy in the house where there are no distractions.  He looks, I click, I treat - I've got his undivided attention.  I keep a treat pouch on my body or at my side and a clicker on my wrist so even when we're in the house - he looks, I click, he gets a treat.  Again, easy to do in the house.

The challenge comes when we work outside each morning.  We spend about 20 minutes out there doing our clicker training (which also drives my dad's dog crazy - but what can I do about that!?) - during that time there's almost certain to be at least 1 or 2 cars drive by, a kid on a bike, a mailman... combiations there of.  Heck even a tweet of a bird can have him snapping his head around.  So I sit there, patiently waiting - saying nothing - and as soon as he looks at me - I click and treat. 

Clicker training is *not* about immediate gratification; its about consistency.  There are no short cuts you can take to get your desired behaviors.  The dog has to think and figure it out.  Sometimes that means going through every 'trick' they have in their book (sit, down, stand, bow, ... ) until they figure out what it is you want.  They know they have it right when they hear the *click*. 
Jessica and Ranger
Lunar K9s Service Dogs Team #2

Thursday, June 3, 2010

There should've been a warning!

If I had packaged the Wobbler for Kong, I would've said..

"Warning - Your dog may not want to eat its food anywhere but in the Wobbler!"

Yes....  He's a Wobbler addict.  Couldn't eat the food in his FULL bowl... Noooooo.... Take out the Wobbler full of the *SAME* kibble... Yeah, he'll eat that!
Seen in the picture above, Ranger with his most "prized" Kong posessions - His Wobbler, Camo Wubba, and the K9-Blue Original Kong.  *shakes head*

And here, we have our Wobbler (again - stil eating mind you), his new Everlasting Treat Ball (with nothing in it - but apparently still making the cut as 'fun and exciting'!) and his Milkbone squeaky-floopy dog. 

Funny story behind that.  Lest you think your dog toys have to cost a fortune for your canine to be thrilled to pieces - That Milkbone squeaky-floopy dog cost me a whopping $2 at Walgreen's! 

We were in there around Christmas time two years ago - just after I got him.  Ranger had been going after Jasmine's pink piggy like a posessed demonic dog.  She, of course, at 8 was NOT amused.  In fact, she'd thought she'd taken enough, and she had.   So, my sweet little Jasmine began to put this new 'thinks he's hot stuff' puppy in his place by rolling him and pinning him every time he came within feet of her pig.  *I* decided *I* had had enough of this.  Normally I'm more than happy to let dogs 'work out the pack' themselves - but we were bordering on dangerous and disturbed and my nerves were SHOT. 

So, we go into Walgreen's to pick up a prescription and low and behold, they have a Milkbone dog toy display.  And my 14-week-old little snit decides to find one he likes which was constructed, remarkably, like the 7-year-old pink piggy.  It was stuffed, floppy, and, most importantly it squeaked.  (Note to those who DON'T know me - I despise most dog toys that squeak.  I have a serious aversion to them!)  -- So, for $2 I figured if he needed his very own 'floopy squeaky' thing to keep the peace in my home - so be it. 

Of course, it didn't.  He still wanted Jasmine's pig.  The pig that she lovingly carried around with her always.  (Actually, it was "the pink pig III" - the first two met.. untimely and unsightly demises.  This one, though, she carried and snuggled and groomed like a baby!  The pig now keeps guard over Jazzy's ashes in a drawer in my dresser.  I thought it only right for now.)

So, the wheel of morality says thus:  1.  You never know what your dog is going to latch on to.  It could be a $2 'but I have to have this' toy - or a $20 Kong. and  2.  Much like children, your dog will most likely want what it sees the other dog playing with.  Its the nature of the beast.  You can't fight it.  My advice?  As my friend Lyss would say - Take a Xanax, have a raspberry Smirnoff, and enjoy the ride.  At least your home will SEEM more peaceful! -- And, like most siblings, start to worry if you hear a scream or start to see blood.

Jessica and Ranger
Lunar K9s Service Dogs Team #2

Responsible Ownership: Picking up Puppy and Making a Happy Homecoming!

So you've read about breeds, you've talked to trainers, breeders, and your vet.  You found the breed.  You found a good, solid, reputable breeder.  Or, maybe you went to your local shelter and found the perfect dog and you just can't wait to get them home.  ---  Following a few simple things will help insure your new dog's homecoming is a happy and successful transition into your family.

1.  Buy a crate!  I can not stress this enough.  Crate training is so very essential.  Dogs are 'den' animals.  In the wild, a pack will live together in a den.  Your dog's crate will become its 'den.'   Its not cruel.  Its not punishing.  Its *natural*.  Trust me, your dog will thank you! 

There are several kinds of crates on the market.  Do *NOT* (read this in bold with blinky lights) get a collapsible, portable, soft-side crate with mesh doors/windows as your dog's 'first crate.'  They sound like a GREAT idea.  Trust me... don't do it.  If you're getting a puppy, they're going to be obsessed with climbing, digging, scratching, chewing.  Plus, they're likely to have an accident or two while they're housebreaking.  Soft-side crates don't hold up to 'puppy.'  Likewise, if you're getting an older, shelter dog, you really have no idea how they'll act when they get home and settle in.  They could very well have had previous experiences where being in a crate is difficult for them.  In time and with lots of patience and love, they'll adjust, but having them in a soft-sided collapsible crate that they can gnaw and claw their way out of only teaches them one thing - If I'm trapped in a crate and I continue to persevere, I can get out.  BAD IDEA! 

Instead, if you *must* have a collapsible crate, go for something like the Midwest Lifestages double-door metal crate.  Again, I'm more a fan of the traditional Petmate variety of crate; hard-sided, plastic crates which create a more 'den-like' atmosphere for your dog.  However, practically speaking, the Midwest Lifestages is great for a puppy because of the removable bottom tray (easy to clean!) and the adjustable/removable divider.  This is really great if you have a large-breed puppy just coming home from the breeders.  You can adjust the length of the crate so the puppy doesn't have too much room to roam.  (Puppies who are placed in crates which are too big for them often develop the bad habit of going to a far corner to do its "business" instead of letting you know it needs to go out!)   If you do decide to go with a wire crate, get a large sheet, blanket, comforter (whatever the weather allows for) and drape it over the crate to make it more den-like and cozy!

Just like you have a bedroom, your dog has its den... err... crate.  :)   --  When you go to bed, so does he.  *IN his crate!*  When you can't have your dog immediately at your side, for whatever reason.  Crate.  If you're leaving the house and the dog will be home alone.  Wait for it....  Yup... CRATE.

It may seem like I'm telling you to crate your dog 24/7.  I'm not.  But, I am telling you to use it wisely.  Dogs that are crated when left alone are safer, less likely to become destructive, and honestly are just happier dogs.  It makes a huge difference!  You, in turn, do not have to spend your evening out worrying if the container of chocolate got left on the counter or if the couch cushions are going to need to be re-covered!  I know of more dogs who have been rushed to Vet ERs because their owners refused to learn to use a crate and the dog made a poor choice while not being watched.  Its sad and pointless and COMPLETELY avoidable.   At 9, 10, and 11 years old, my girls STILL were crated when I left the house or could not have them within my immediate vicinity in the house.  I never ever wanted to be the dog owner standing in the vet's office saying 'I wish I would have just...'   I knew better  Now, so do you.  

Once you are sure your dog is housebroken and is sleeping completely through the night and can be trusted in a secured, danger-free environment, if you still feel like you WANT to let them sleep out on a dog bed - that's your choice.  But, having done this for this many years, I can tell you *my* dogs have always ended UP in their crates at night because they like the routine and feel safer there.  It will become a routine for you and your canine companion.  Just like putting a child to bed - you'll have a 'bedtime' routine at night and before you know it, your dog just might be tapping its toe telling you its time for bed!

2.  Use the "tether method." -  Whether you're starting with a brand-new puppy or a rescue, until you know for sure your dog is housebroken and has acclimated to your home, take a short leash and tether the dog to you.  This does several things:
         ---  It begins a strong bonding process.  As you go through your day/evening with your dog tethered to you, talk to it.  I can promise you it will not care if you're talking about Cheryl's latest gossip or the casserole you're making... hearing and getting used to the sound of your voice is soothing.  Your new dog will soon learn the inflections and syncopation of your voice and tune into them. 
         ---  If the dog seems to be distracted or fidgety, it might need to go out, and you're right there to notice the behaviors.  The more your dog is attached to you, the more YOU will tune into its body language and alerts.  Whether its that someone unfamiliar is in its territory or that it just needs a quick potty break, you'll start picking up on the cues.
        ---  You know your dog is not getting into dangerous trouble!  Puppies, like babies, explore their surroundings by mouthing, chewing and eating everything.  Yes, this could mean your brand new $1200 Jimmy Choos or it could mean the electrical cord to the dryer.  Likewise, rescue and shelter dogs can often feel overwhelmed and frightened in another new situation and may run for the smallest corner they can find - even if its behind the refrigerator!  If your dog is tethered to you in the beginning, they get the lay of the land by walking around the house *with* you, so they can still learn about their surroundings, but they cant get into anything you don't know about!
       ---  Most importantly, it establishes a pack order.  In the wild, dog packs are much like wolf packs.  There is an alpha dog.  The alpha controls *everything* in the packs existence.  Where the others sleep; when they eat; WHAT they eat; and even their movements.  A strong alpha leader does not just willy nilly expose their pack to a new situation or location.  They scout first and then begin to hand down decrees through body movements, vocalizations, and, if necessary, physicality.  By tethering your dog to you, you're relaying the signal that the dog *MUST* pay attention to you.  It is an EXCELLENT groundlaying for leash work and heeling later on.  For now, though, it just means, "I'm in charge.  You're in *my* pack.  You're safe."  Yes, dogs, like children, find order and structure very comforting!

3.  Have a place for your new dog to lay that is *not* on your couch or bed.  Alpha dogs sit and sleep on the highest places in the pack.  Until you know what kind of demeanor your dog has - whether or not it will challenge your alpha status - better to be safe and maintain order and sanity.  Give them a dog bed and let them use it.

4.  Pick durable toys!  I can not stress this enough, especially if you have a puppy.  Get toys that your puppy can chew on, heavily.  Puppy teething process causes  more headaches and heartbreaks than almost anything else (except housebreaking!) -- Make sure you've always got something on hand to 'trade' them - take away the inappropriate item they're chewing on and replace it in their mouths with something that's acceptable.  Kong makes *GREAT* chew toys.  Filling them with healthy treats is a way to not only keep your dog chewing on the RIGHT thing, but get their minds to engage.  A "thinking" dog is a dog who can learn better later when you start to work on basic obedience.

5.  Speaking of "basic obedience" - find an obedience class that is appropriate for your dog.  If you have a puppy, find a "Puppy Kindergarten" class.  If you've gotten an older dog, go for a home companion class that offers the option to take the AKC's Canine Good Citizenship test.  This is a great opportunity not only for your dog to learn *necessary* skills, but for you to bond with your dog, get them well socialized and adjusted, *AND* have some great quality time with your canine companion!  You'll meet lots of new people and I promise will learn how to crack even the toughest behaviors. 

Bringing home a new puppy is exciting!  Its also nerve wracking and sometimes exhausting.  Following the simple things I outlined above will make that process more enjoyable for everyone involved. 

Next time:  Housebreaking 101

Product Review: Everlasting Treat Ball (Large)

Most of you know by now two things about us. 

1.  Ranger can be an aggressive (read: *destructive*) chewer when it comes to his things.

2.  I *hate* to spend money on something without at least a fair amount of certainty that it will last us.  

So, when I saw the Everlasting Treat Ball, I figured there was *no way* I could get it and have it last more than a day - tops.  I mean, Ranger tore through the Tug-a-Jug and that was supposed to be airplane-grade, bullet-resistant plastic!  Thus far the only Kong (other than his Camo Wubba and Purple Snugga Wubba!) that he hasn't managed to mangle and destroy is our favorite Blue Kong - which is intended for K9 units and schutzhund dogs.  Yup... that's my baby!

Of course, not being able to FEEL one made it hard as well.  The packaging makes it look like its a hard plastic blue ball.  Au contraire!  Its actually a very flexible rubber.  I'm still looking for the right material to liken it to - but its... not "plastic" that's for sure!  And yet, still, I hemmed and hawed, stopping every time I was in a store that carried it.  Do I; don't I?

Then, I saw it on the streaming video at leerburg.com   Ed Frawley.  My idol among dog trainers.  HE recommended it?  I watched the demonstration.  I saw the 4-year-old one left out in the yard to be played with by German Shepherds, Malinois... working dogs... hard-as-nails working dogs.... TOUGH dogs.  And it withstood THAT? 

Yup, you guessed it - We had to see how it would do against "the Ranger Test!"


We got the Everlasting Treat Ball home and I opened the package, filling the inside with his kibble, leaving only ONE treat dome in it (saving the second one as a 'spare' for another time!).  That's one of the nice things, it DOES come with an 'extra,' though to tell the truth, both sides of the "ball" are designed to take one dome, so truthfully you probably could (should) insert one, put your kibble or treats in the center and the insert the other dome in the other end. 

Ranger, however, did not mind in the least.  As soon as I put it on top of the food containers, he had to go check it out - and then when I said 'take it,' it was all he could do not to pounce on it!   He was *definitely* motivated!

He took it right to his place on the floor and started to investigate.  I had packed the inside full of kibble (since he hadn't really eatten much in the way of food this morning) and he was busy figuring out how this was similar to his Kong Wobbler.  The thing I love about these kinds of toys is that they engage his brain and you can see him stepping through the process!


He figures out that the 'dome' is a treat and starts to go to town!  You can see the large is really made for "large breed" dogs!  His mouth DID fit around the dome though and probably I would have gotten him an 'extra large' if they'd had one because as you'll see in the next picture, he was able to *easily* pop the dome treat out!


And there you go.  Dome treat out.  Dog kibble everywhere.  He was still enjoying licking/chewing on the dome!  --- All this mayhem in UNDER 15 minutes.  (I even put the dome back IN there and it took him only seconds to pop it out and start gnawing on it.

I had hoped, as Mr. Frawley says in the video, that it would "keep him busy for hours."  It did not.  It was 35 minutes start to finish - including the kibble that he got on the floor!   But, the ball is still intact.  I have no concerns about him chewing on it because of the material it is made out of, and most importantly - he enjoyed it.

SO, while it claims to be the "everlasting" treat ball, I think what they mean to say is "everlasting ball that holds treats!"  For an industrious chewer, it seems to be a good fit.  Replacement treat domes can be purchased on Amazon for anywhere from $3 to $8 per 2 pack in a variety of flavors (everything from chicken to BBQ, liver to peanut butter, hypoallergenic (wheat, corn, and soy free!) to vanilla-mint!) - Will it keep your dog happy for hours?  I don't know.  Ranger's a rather unique and special dog.  He tends to figure out the fastest way to do something and he's off running, but your mileage may vary on that one. 

All in all, we give it 4/5 paws for entertainment and (so far) for standing up to the 'Ranger Test.'

Jessica and Ranger
Lunar K9s Service Dogs Team #2

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

Training Days - "Charging the Marker" and Focus

Ranger and I took advantage of my feeling slightly human this morning and we went outside and trained for a bit. 

When we walked out, there was someone standing at my dad's car talking to dad.  Ok.  so I waited until he went back to his car and then Ranger and I did some offlead attention and heeling.  I made him 'think.'  Instead of giving him an automatic correction, I just told him 'nope' and waited for him to try again (and again and again) until he got a 'Yes!' and lots of praise - even some treats!!  We worked on some recalls too.  I was trying to get him excited and motivated for training.  An excited-to-work dog is a much better dog to train with.  They're going to be excited and engaged. 

We worked on "charging the marker" - its the first step in clicker training.  Yes, I'm going WAY back!!  I said "Yes" and clicked (so there's a verbal marker and the clicker for him to associate) and gave him a treat.  You're not really looking for any behavior at this stage - just click-treat, click-treat... or in my case  click/say-treat, click/say-treat.  -- Why did I use both a verbal and a click?  Because I wont *always* have the clicker on me, I want to be able to use a verbal marker as well. 

Since this is a 'refresher' for Ranger - I threw him a twist.  I would say his name and each time he looked at me, I'd yes/click and give him a treat.   He's still SUPER distracted.   We've got to get that under control.  I dont need 100% of his attnetion 100% of the time - but I need more than what I've got now.  We're going to keep working.
Jessica and Ranger
Lunar K9s Service Dogs Team #2

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Growing Pains and Going Insane...

Every dog has to 'grow up' at some point.  There comes a day where you decide, "maybe I'll try this and see what happens."  Some days, its a horrible idea.  You realize you forgot the mantra "Slow is Fast" and you've got to back up a few steps.  Some days, however, like today, you realize your little darling is ready for that step.   Much like a child's first mastery of a new concept/boundary/etc, these moments are your 'markers.'

Ranger's marker this week came in the form of a transition.  Off came the prong collar and on went the gentle leader. 

I will not stand here and say that every way - or even *MY* way - will work for every dog.  Each dog is different.  Each dog needs different things.  Ranger *needed* his prong.  That's not to say that he might not need it again in the future.  Its also not to say that just because the gentle leader works for him now, that it will still work for him in 6 months. 

Anyone who tells you dog training is an exact science, that they have all the answers, they're full of crap. 

So, while we were going back to square 1 and trying to teach him to watch me and pay attention and stay focused on me, we tried out the gentle leader to see how he would respond and if it would make any difference.  I can tell you unequivocably, it did. 

Armed with a gentle leader and the multi-configuration leash around my waist, we persevered.  I re-watched some of the Leerburg DVDs and onine streaming training videos.  What I really *wanted* to do was to step back, regroup his focus work *AND* charge a marker (or clicker).  But I refrained remembering once again that 'slow is fast!'

There are times when he's still mking 'puppy' mistakes.  Truthfully, he *IS* still a puppy!  - But, he's also paying better attention to me - he's moving with me as a unit most of the time - and when he doesn't, I'm giving him an 'uh uh' (which tells him, nope, that's not right... try again!)  --- I'm making him think and problem solve.  I'm making him figure out what to do to get my praise, which is part of the marker theory too! 

Of course, he's not thrilled with being tethered all the time.  He's not so thrilled with the gentle leader... but he's starting to adjust.  He's not trying to paw it off any more.  He's walking up/down the stairs slowly and *with* me. 

My dad has been working hard at ignoring Ranger - or at least asking if he can pet him before he does it - which I very much appreciate.  Its not that I dont want them to be 'buds' but Ranger needs to listen to ME first and foremost.  He wasn't. 

All in all today I could see our first rays of 'hope.' with him.  Let's all pray that the light in the tunnel continues on tomorrow as well!