Responsible Ownership: Picking up Puppy and Making a Happy Homecoming!

So you've read about breeds, you've talked to trainers, breeders, and your vet.  You found the breed.  You found a good, solid, reputable breeder.  Or, maybe you went to your local shelter and found the perfect dog and you just can't wait to get them home.  ---  Following a few simple things will help insure your new dog's homecoming is a happy and successful transition into your family.

1.  Buy a crate!  I can not stress this enough.  Crate training is so very essential.  Dogs are 'den' animals.  In the wild, a pack will live together in a den.  Your dog's crate will become its 'den.'   Its not cruel.  Its not punishing.  Its *natural*.  Trust me, your dog will thank you! 

There are several kinds of crates on the market.  Do *NOT* (read this in bold with blinky lights) get a collapsible, portable, soft-side crate with mesh doors/windows as your dog's 'first crate.'  They sound like a GREAT idea.  Trust me... don't do it.  If you're getting a puppy, they're going to be obsessed with climbing, digging, scratching, chewing.  Plus, they're likely to have an accident or two while they're housebreaking.  Soft-side crates don't hold up to 'puppy.'  Likewise, if you're getting an older, shelter dog, you really have no idea how they'll act when they get home and settle in.  They could very well have had previous experiences where being in a crate is difficult for them.  In time and with lots of patience and love, they'll adjust, but having them in a soft-sided collapsible crate that they can gnaw and claw their way out of only teaches them one thing - If I'm trapped in a crate and I continue to persevere, I can get out.  BAD IDEA! 

Instead, if you *must* have a collapsible crate, go for something like the Midwest Lifestages double-door metal crate.  Again, I'm more a fan of the traditional Petmate variety of crate; hard-sided, plastic crates which create a more 'den-like' atmosphere for your dog.  However, practically speaking, the Midwest Lifestages is great for a puppy because of the removable bottom tray (easy to clean!) and the adjustable/removable divider.  This is really great if you have a large-breed puppy just coming home from the breeders.  You can adjust the length of the crate so the puppy doesn't have too much room to roam.  (Puppies who are placed in crates which are too big for them often develop the bad habit of going to a far corner to do its "business" instead of letting you know it needs to go out!)   If you do decide to go with a wire crate, get a large sheet, blanket, comforter (whatever the weather allows for) and drape it over the crate to make it more den-like and cozy!

Just like you have a bedroom, your dog has its den... err... crate.  :)   --  When you go to bed, so does he.  *IN his crate!*  When you can't have your dog immediately at your side, for whatever reason.  Crate.  If you're leaving the house and the dog will be home alone.  Wait for it....  Yup... CRATE.

It may seem like I'm telling you to crate your dog 24/7.  I'm not.  But, I am telling you to use it wisely.  Dogs that are crated when left alone are safer, less likely to become destructive, and honestly are just happier dogs.  It makes a huge difference!  You, in turn, do not have to spend your evening out worrying if the container of chocolate got left on the counter or if the couch cushions are going to need to be re-covered!  I know of more dogs who have been rushed to Vet ERs because their owners refused to learn to use a crate and the dog made a poor choice while not being watched.  Its sad and pointless and COMPLETELY avoidable.   At 9, 10, and 11 years old, my girls STILL were crated when I left the house or could not have them within my immediate vicinity in the house.  I never ever wanted to be the dog owner standing in the vet's office saying 'I wish I would have just...'   I knew better  Now, so do you.  

Once you are sure your dog is housebroken and is sleeping completely through the night and can be trusted in a secured, danger-free environment, if you still feel like you WANT to let them sleep out on a dog bed - that's your choice.  But, having done this for this many years, I can tell you *my* dogs have always ended UP in their crates at night because they like the routine and feel safer there.  It will become a routine for you and your canine companion.  Just like putting a child to bed - you'll have a 'bedtime' routine at night and before you know it, your dog just might be tapping its toe telling you its time for bed!

2.  Use the "tether method." -  Whether you're starting with a brand-new puppy or a rescue, until you know for sure your dog is housebroken and has acclimated to your home, take a short leash and tether the dog to you.  This does several things:
         ---  It begins a strong bonding process.  As you go through your day/evening with your dog tethered to you, talk to it.  I can promise you it will not care if you're talking about Cheryl's latest gossip or the casserole you're making... hearing and getting used to the sound of your voice is soothing.  Your new dog will soon learn the inflections and syncopation of your voice and tune into them. 
         ---  If the dog seems to be distracted or fidgety, it might need to go out, and you're right there to notice the behaviors.  The more your dog is attached to you, the more YOU will tune into its body language and alerts.  Whether its that someone unfamiliar is in its territory or that it just needs a quick potty break, you'll start picking up on the cues.
        ---  You know your dog is not getting into dangerous trouble!  Puppies, like babies, explore their surroundings by mouthing, chewing and eating everything.  Yes, this could mean your brand new $1200 Jimmy Choos or it could mean the electrical cord to the dryer.  Likewise, rescue and shelter dogs can often feel overwhelmed and frightened in another new situation and may run for the smallest corner they can find - even if its behind the refrigerator!  If your dog is tethered to you in the beginning, they get the lay of the land by walking around the house *with* you, so they can still learn about their surroundings, but they cant get into anything you don't know about!
       ---  Most importantly, it establishes a pack order.  In the wild, dog packs are much like wolf packs.  There is an alpha dog.  The alpha controls *everything* in the packs existence.  Where the others sleep; when they eat; WHAT they eat; and even their movements.  A strong alpha leader does not just willy nilly expose their pack to a new situation or location.  They scout first and then begin to hand down decrees through body movements, vocalizations, and, if necessary, physicality.  By tethering your dog to you, you're relaying the signal that the dog *MUST* pay attention to you.  It is an EXCELLENT groundlaying for leash work and heeling later on.  For now, though, it just means, "I'm in charge.  You're in *my* pack.  You're safe."  Yes, dogs, like children, find order and structure very comforting!

3.  Have a place for your new dog to lay that is *not* on your couch or bed.  Alpha dogs sit and sleep on the highest places in the pack.  Until you know what kind of demeanor your dog has - whether or not it will challenge your alpha status - better to be safe and maintain order and sanity.  Give them a dog bed and let them use it.

4.  Pick durable toys!  I can not stress this enough, especially if you have a puppy.  Get toys that your puppy can chew on, heavily.  Puppy teething process causes  more headaches and heartbreaks than almost anything else (except housebreaking!) -- Make sure you've always got something on hand to 'trade' them - take away the inappropriate item they're chewing on and replace it in their mouths with something that's acceptable.  Kong makes *GREAT* chew toys.  Filling them with healthy treats is a way to not only keep your dog chewing on the RIGHT thing, but get their minds to engage.  A "thinking" dog is a dog who can learn better later when you start to work on basic obedience.

5.  Speaking of "basic obedience" - find an obedience class that is appropriate for your dog.  If you have a puppy, find a "Puppy Kindergarten" class.  If you've gotten an older dog, go for a home companion class that offers the option to take the AKC's Canine Good Citizenship test.  This is a great opportunity not only for your dog to learn *necessary* skills, but for you to bond with your dog, get them well socialized and adjusted, *AND* have some great quality time with your canine companion!  You'll meet lots of new people and I promise will learn how to crack even the toughest behaviors. 

Bringing home a new puppy is exciting!  Its also nerve wracking and sometimes exhausting.  Following the simple things I outlined above will make that process more enjoyable for everyone involved. 

Next time:  Housebreaking 101