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Monday, June 28, 2010

Responsible Dog Ownership - Housebreaking 101

I'm going to assume at this point that you've read my posts about getting a new puppy/dog and bringing your new puppy/dog home  Today, we're going to take the next leap - Housebreaking!

Once again I'm going on record as saying that my methods are not the *only* housebreaking methods.  I firmly believe that being a good dog trainer means evaluating and adapting to each individual dog.  I encourage owners who have tried these various methods and have not had the success they want or need to reach out to an experienced local trainer in your area.  There are dog training clubs, independent trainers, and training schools out there.  Make sure you do your research and pick a training who is compatible with your own values and views of raising your dog. 

Now... on to the show!

I said it before and I'll say it again.  The number 1 best training tool, the best housebreaking tool, is a good dog crate.  In addition to all of the previous benefits we talked about, using a crate for housebreaking does make things less stressful on you and your dog.  Less stressful means a better experience, less accidents, and a more positive training experience.  The things to remember when using a crate for housebreaking:
     1.  You do *not* want a crate that is too big.  You dont want them to have enough room to segment the crate - a part for sleeping a part as a bathroom.  Their crate is *not* a master suite!
     2.  The crate is not a jail cell.  Puppies need time out to play and learn and explore, but it *MUST* be highly supervised.  A puppy or new dog needs time to learn the "rules" and how to give you the cue that they need to go out.  My golden rule:  If you can't be watching them, you can't get upse if they have an accident.  Would you let a baby or toddler run around the house without a diaper, not watch them, and then be upset when they had an accident?


How do you put this into a positive, practical experience? 
1.  Remember that puppies have tiny little bladders.  They need to go out often and praised each and every time they eliminate in the appropriate place.  Using the word you want to associate with this *as they are doing the act* will help them get the idea of going on command.  Believe me, this is a huge benefit for you.  I highly recommend it.  Older dogs can have the same program, however, they may not need to go out as frequently and will more quickly catch on to letting you know.  But, again, you have to watch them for cues!

2.  Feed on a schedule!   Puppies should be fed anywhere from 2 to 3 or 4 times a day.  Put their food down for 30 minutes.  If they finish early, or after 30 minutes, take them out.  If they eliminate, praise of course, but then let them have some play time.  Puppies will often wear themselves out after only a few minutes.  As they get older, so will their stamina.  After play time, give them one more chance to eliminate (and praise of course!) and then bring them into the house.  If you cant give the puppy attention, then crate until you can.  But, remember, every time you let them out of the crate, you have to let them out to eliminate! 

If, however, your puppy does NOT elimiate while outside, when you go back into the house, crate for 20-30 minutes and try again.  You really want your puppy to realize that elimiating outside not only gets them tons of great praise from you, but that it also means play and inclusion in family social time.   Dogs are pack animals, they *want* to be with their pack, even if its just watching tv together!!

3.  While older dogs can usually go longer, puppies are going to need to go out every 2 hours or so.  Yes, that often means in the middle of the night.  However, if you're on a feeding schedule and you remove food and water at a specific time every night, your dog will get used to the schedule and you'll find overnight trips out will become fewer and further beween!

My biggest hot topic:

4.  If you catch your puppy/dog in the act -  Use a loud, sharp noise (e.g.: clap your hands loudly, make a vocalization like 'EH!', etc).  This should startled (but not SCARE) the puppy/dog and you can immediately take them out to the place where they SHOULD be eliminating.  When they continue out there, do remember to lavish praise.  If you do NOT catch them in the act - YOU were not paying attention!  Once the act is complete, there's no sense in yelling at your puppy/dog.  Try yelling at yourself for not keeping the dog tethered to you, watching the dog more closely, or in the crate. Dogs only associate consequences of an action as the action is happening.  Punishing a dog later for something they've done is useless and will only foster fear and aggression.  Its not worth it, trust me.  As frustrated as you are in that moment, stop and think.  Was the dog trying to tell you someting?  Did you miss a cue?  How did the dog get out of your sight?  If you gave them more freedom to roam the house, go back a step to less freedoms. 


Housebreaking is not always easy.  These tips and suggestionns have worked for me.  They may not work for you as each puppy/dog is different, but they're sound foundations to build on. 
Jessica and Ranger
Lunar K9s Service Dogs Team #2

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